The first time Mason Reese Underwood’s deviled ham graced a dinner table, it didn’t just fill plates—it commanded the room. The scent of brown sugar and cloves, the creamy glaze pooling over a perfectly cured ham, the way the meat held its shape after hours of slow roasting. This isn’t just another holiday centerpiece; it’s a mason reese underwood deviled ham tradition, passed down like a family heirloom, where every slice tells a story of Southern hospitality.
What makes this recipe different? It’s not the ham itself—though Underwood’s butchered hams are legendary—but the alchemy of flavors layered into the glaze. A whisper of bourbon, a pinch of cayenne, the slow caramelization of brown sugar until it becomes a sticky, amber crust. The result is a ham so rich it borders on decadence, yet so balanced it doesn’t overwhelm. This is the kind of dish that turns casual gatherings into events.
Yet for all its fame, the deviled ham by Mason Reese Underwood remains an enigma to many. How does he achieve that perfect glaze without burning the edges? What’s the secret to keeping the meat tender after hours in the oven? And why does this particular method—with its blend of mustard, honey, and spices—stand apart from other deviled ham recipes? The answers lie in decades of butchery craftsmanship, a deep respect for tradition, and a few well-guarded techniques that elevate the ordinary into the extraordinary.
The Complete Overview of Mason Reese Underwood’s Deviled Ham
The Mason Reese Underwood deviled ham is more than a recipe; it’s a culinary philosophy. At its core, it’s a celebration of pork—slow-cured, expertly trimmed, and transformed through a process that respects the meat’s natural richness while adding layers of complexity. Underwood’s approach begins with the selection: only hams with the right marbling, fat cap, and bone structure make the cut. Once chosen, the ham undergoes a dry brine, a technique that enhances flavor without making the meat too salty. This is where the magic starts.
What follows is a deviled ham method that blends precision with intuition. The ham is scored in a diamond pattern—not just for aesthetics, but to allow the glaze to penetrate deeply. The filling, a mix of cream cheese, Dijon mustard, and a touch of honey, is injected into the scored sections, ensuring every bite carries that signature tangy-sweet contrast. The glaze, meanwhile, is a slow-simmered reduction of brown sugar, bourbon, and spices, brushed on in stages to prevent burning. The result? A ham that’s moist, flavorful, and visually stunning, with a crust that crackles under the knife.
Historical Background and Evolution
The deviled ham as we know it today traces its roots to 19th-century American cookery, where "deviled" dishes—those with a spicy or tangy kick—became a staple of Southern cuisine. But Mason Reese Underwood’s version is a modern interpretation, refined over generations. The name "deviled" likely comes from the Old French *diable*, meaning "devil," originally used to describe dishes with a fiery or bold flavor profile. Underwood’s twist, however, leans into sweetness and depth, making it a far cry from the vinegar-heavy deviled eggs of yesteryear.
Underwood’s family has been butchering and curing hams since the early 1900s, but his deviled ham recipe gained prominence in the 1980s, when he began perfecting the glaze technique. The key innovation? The use of bourbon in the glaze, a nod to Kentucky’s influence on Southern cooking. Unlike traditional honey-glazed hams, which can taste cloying, Underwood’s bourbon-infused version adds a smoky warmth that cuts through the richness. Over time, the recipe evolved to include cream cheese in the filling—a move that surprised purists but delighted diners with its velvety texture.
Core Mechanisms: How It Works
The Mason Reese Underwood deviled ham relies on three critical phases: preparation, injection, and glazing. First, the ham is dry-brined for 24–48 hours, allowing the salt to penetrate evenly. This step is non-negotiable; without it, the ham risks being bland or overly salty. Next, the ham is scored in a diamond pattern, creating channels for the filling. The injection itself is a delicate process—too much pressure can rupture the meat, while too little leaves gaps. Underwood’s team uses a specialized tool to ensure even distribution.
The glaze is where the recipe truly shines. It’s not just sugar and water; it’s a multi-stage reduction that includes brown sugar, bourbon, black peppercorns, and a splash of apple cider vinegar for brightness. The ham is glazed in three stages: an initial coat before roasting, a second layer midway through, and a final brush just before serving. This gradual approach prevents the sugar from burning while allowing it to caramelize into a glossy, crackling crust. The result is a ham that’s as impressive to look at as it is to eat.
Key Benefits and Crucial Impact
There’s a reason the Mason Reese Underwood deviled ham is a holiday institution. It’s not just about taste—though that’s undeniable—but about the experience it delivers. A well-made deviled ham is the heart of any feast, the dish that guests linger over, that becomes the topic of conversation. It’s a centerpiece that says, "I put thought into this," without needing to shout. For hosts, it’s a way to elevate a simple meal into a memorable event. For diners, it’s a taste of tradition, a reminder of why family gatherings feel special.
Beyond the emotional impact, there’s the practical advantage: this ham keeps well. The dry brine and slow roasting methods ensure it stays moist for days, making it ideal for large gatherings where leftovers are inevitable. The glaze, meanwhile, adds a layer of preservation, sealing in flavors while keeping the meat tender. It’s a dish that works as hard as it tastes—feeding a crowd, impressing guests, and standing up to reheating without drying out.
"A great deviled ham isn’t just about the meat—it’s about the story behind it. Mason Reese Underwood’s method turns a simple ingredient into something that feels like a gift."
— James Beard Award-winning chef Sean Brock
Major Advantages
- Unmatched Flavor Depth: The combination of bourbon, honey, and cream cheese creates a balance of sweet, smoky, and tangy notes that most store-bought hams can’t replicate.
- Visual Appeal: The diamond scoring and glossy glaze make the ham a showstopper, far more impressive than a plain spiral-cut ham.
- Versatility: The filling can be adjusted—add pineapple for a tropical twist, or swap bourbon for rum for a different depth.
- Crowd-Pleaser: It’s rich enough to satisfy meat lovers but light enough to appeal to those who prefer subtler flavors.
- Make-Ahead Friendly: The ham can be prepped a day in advance, making it ideal for busy hosts.
Comparative Analysis
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Future Trends and Innovations
The Mason Reese Underwood deviled ham is already a classic, but the future of this dish lies in innovation without sacrificing tradition. One trend gaining traction is the use of alternative sweeteners—maple syrup or agave—to cater to health-conscious diners while keeping the caramelized depth. Another evolution is the incorporation of global flavors: think a touch of miso in the glaze for umami richness or a dash of chili powder for a Southwestern twist. Underwood himself has experimented with smoked paprika and even a hint of coffee in the filling, proving that even a time-honored recipe can adapt.
Technology is also playing a role. Smart ovens with even heat distribution make it easier to achieve the perfect glaze without constant monitoring. Meanwhile, sous-vide methods are being explored to ensure the ham stays moist at the center while developing that coveted crust. The challenge will be balancing these modern techniques with the artisanal touch that makes the deviled ham by Mason Reese Underwood special. One thing is certain: as long as there’s a demand for showstopping holiday dishes, this recipe will continue to evolve—just like the families that gather around it.
Conclusion
The Mason Reese Underwood deviled ham is more than a recipe; it’s a testament to the power of tradition and the joy of sharing a meal. It’s the kind of dish that turns a simple gathering into a celebration, that makes guests feel like they’ve been welcomed into a home rather than just a house. Whether you’re a seasoned cook or a first-time host, this ham offers a level of sophistication that’s surprisingly accessible. The key is patience—the dry brine, the careful scoring, the layered glazing—each step is a chance to connect with the craft behind the meal.
As you prepare your own deviled ham inspired by Mason Reese Underwood, remember that the best recipes aren’t just about following instructions. They’re about adapting them to your own story. Maybe you’ll add a splash of your grandmother’s favorite liqueur. Maybe you’ll serve it with a side dish that’s become tradition in your family. The point is to make it your own, just as Underwood has done with his. After all, the most memorable meals are the ones that feel like home.
Comprehensive FAQs
Q: Can I make the Mason Reese Underwood deviled ham ahead of time?
A: Absolutely. In fact, it’s recommended. The ham can be dry-brined and scored up to 48 hours in advance, and the filling can be mixed a day ahead. The glazing should be done the day of cooking, but the ham can be reheated gently (325°F for 10–15 minutes) to restore moisture. The glaze will re-gloss when brushed on fresh.
Q: What’s the best way to store leftovers?
A: Wrap the leftovers tightly in plastic wrap, then foil, and refrigerate for up to 5 days. To reheat, place slices in a skillet with a splash of broth or apple cider and warm over low heat. Avoid microwaving, as it can dry out the meat. For longer storage, freeze for up to 3 months.
Q: Can I substitute bourbon in the glaze?
A: Yes, but choose a spirit with a similar depth. Rum (dark or spiced) works well for a tropical note, while brandy adds a floral richness. If avoiding alcohol, use apple cider or a non-alcoholic bourbon alternative. Just reduce the liquid slightly if using a stronger spirit to maintain the right consistency.
Q: How do I keep the ham from drying out?
A: The dry brine is critical—it ensures even moisture distribution. Additionally, avoid overcooking; use a meat thermometer (140°F for medium doneness). The cream cheese filling also adds moisture, so don’t skip it. If the ham seems dry after cooking, brush it with a mix of equal parts melted butter and honey before serving.
Q: What sides pair best with this ham?
A: The rich, sweet-savory profile of the Mason Reese Underwood deviled ham pairs beautifully with:
- Bourbon-glazed sweet potatoes
- Collard greens with smoked turkey neck
- Creamy scalloped potatoes or au gratin
- Roasted Brussels sprouts with pecans
- Classic mac and cheese (the creaminess balances the ham’s richness)
Q: Is this recipe suitable for vegetarians or vegans?
A: Not traditionally, but there are creative alternatives. For a vegetarian version, use a large portobello mushroom or a king oyster mushroom, marinated in a mix of soy sauce, maple syrup, and smoked paprika, then glazed with a caramelized onion and balsamic reduction. For vegan, consider a jackfruit or seitan "ham" with a similar filling and glaze. The texture won’t be identical, but the technique can be adapted.
Q: Why does Mason Reese Underwood’s version taste different from store-bought deviled hams?
A: Store-bought deviled hams often rely on pre-cured, pre-glazed shortcuts—think canned fillings and artificial sweeteners. Underwood’s method uses fresh, high-quality pork, a dry brine for natural flavor development, and real ingredients (bourbon, cream cheese, etc.) that can’t be replicated in mass production. The scoring and multi-stage glazing also ensure even flavor penetration, something most pre-packaged versions lack.
